#Eurotrip - Scotland: Orkney Islands & Loch Ness

The Broch of Gurness

The last half of our Scottish adventure was around the Orkney Islands and Lochness. After our day on Skye, Dan and I hit the road early in the morning to make a quick stop at Eileen Donan and then head for the highlands. We had a timeline to keep intact because we were traveling on a 7:30pm ferry to the Orkneys and our hostel had already been booked and paid for.

While it was another rainy day, it was a travel day so we really didn't mind. We were able to traverse some smaller roads while heading across the island from the west coast and Skye to the east coast and the gateway to the highlands, Inverness. We made it to Inverness around lunch time and decided it was the perfect time to grab a bite. We drove into town and experienced our first traffic circle complete with multiple lights to enter and exit (thrilling and terrifying at the same time)! After parking near the bus station, we were able to stroll into old town and figure out where to stop. We ended up picking a cute restaurant that served sandwiches and salads. After lunch we stopped in at Pound Land (the Scottish dollar store) and grabbed water bottles and snacks so that we didn't have a repeat situation like we did in Skye (were we missed lunch and were starving!).

After our quick stop in Inverness and gassing up the car since we were headed into more remote parts of the country, we were back on the road and headed north. The reason we had to traverse the country from West to East is because there is really only one main road that gets you all the way north that is more than a single lane. Luckily we arrived early and were able to grab sandwiches at the snack bar since we would be arriving after 8:30 and nothing was going to be open except the supermarket.

The passage over was pretty easy and we were soon in the Orkneys. Dan initially was very hesitant to add the Orkneys to our itinerary as it was very far north, required a ferry and occupied our last few days in Scotland, but he was the fist to admit to me that it was the best decision we made. The Orkney Islands are considered one of the top four islands in Europe according to trip advisor, and I have to say I agree completely.

We stayed in a local hostel that was more like a retreat center with our own private room. The next morning we noshed on a cold breakfast and then headed out for the day. The folks at the hostel arranged a twilight tour for us of Maeshowe at 7pm, so we knew we had the whole day to explore until then. We decided that based on what we wanted to see, we would explore the west side of the island for the day. Our first stop was the Broch of Gurness. A four star sight through Historic Scotland, we were able to use our explorer passes to get in. Well off the beaten path (you think you are driving through someone's farm to get there), its a hidden gem that is worth the trip. An iron age settlement that has been excavated from the sand and soil above, this Broch is fully open to the public. Unlike Skara Brae where you are kept to paths above the settlements, here you can wander in and out and touch the stones that were used to build this settlement over 2000 years ago. The Broch was built between 500 and 200BC and abandoned in 100AD. After that the vikings used this area for burials.

Just hanging out.

Our next stop was Skara Brae. Over 5000 years old, this UNESCO site was discovered in 1850 after a storm blew away the sand that had been preserving it. Skara Brae was not always on the coast line, in fact it was believed to be a good walk from the ocean when it was built. Because the sight is so sensitive, visitors are kept to a path above most of the settlement, but there is a replica house guests can enter to get an idea of what life was like. Older than the pyramids and Stonehenge, this immaculately preserved site is fascinating and its still hard to fathom just how old it is. The walkway to the site from the museum serves as a timeline with stone blocks highlighting major world events, like the pyramids, the fall of Greece, the fall of Rome, Stonehenge and more.

Skara Brae

After Skara Brae, we headed for a hike near Yensaby through the cliffs of Blackcraig. Yesnaby is an old WWII outpost along the coast and an easy location to start a hike. There is pavement and lots of parking. From Yensaby, we headed to the left, south along the Orkney coast. The cliffs here are unpredictable and vary from lush green tabletops to shale and slate ledges. Luckily, the day was bright and sunny, because in the rain the slate would be perilous.

We walked for a few miles south along the cliffs, climbing around and investigating all the natural bridges and caves the water has formed over the years. We even hiked down to the shoreline where the cliffs were not as high. A beautiful walk with varying scenery, it was the perfect stop off after Skara Brae and before the Brough of Birsay, our next stop.

Near Yensaby

One of the many bridges formed by water over the years.

Only accessible at low tide, The Brough of Birsay is the site of a Norse and Pictish settlements. The island is separated from the larger island (and mainland) by the Sound of Birsay and today a walkway becomes accessible at low tide. The walls and foundations of a Pictish church and monastery are still visible as well as the walls and foundations of a few Norse long houses.

Up past the settlement you find farmland for grazing sheep and the Brough of Birsay lighthouse. If you continue your climb past the lighthouse to the cliffs on the northern edge of the brough, you will find hundreds of sea birds. Artic sea birds of Guillemot and Puffins breed here, as well as Fulmars. Dan, whose dream was to see a puffin, was in heaven as we bounced from cliff edge to cliff edge to see the tiny birds.

Dan on the Northern tip of the Brough of Birsay

Puffins!

After we finished with our puffin friends, we only had an hour or so before our tour at Maeshowe, so we decided to stop by the Standing Stones of Stennes and the Ring of Brogdar, both only minutes from Maeshowe. The Ring of Brogdar was our first stop. At 104 meters wide, the ring originally was comprised of 68 stones, although only 27 still remain. Another World Heritage Site, what is most impressive about the Ring of Brogdar is the size of the diameter and how perfect the circle is.

Just down the road, is another impressive stone site, The Standing Stones of Stennes. Dating back to the 3rd millennium BC, the Stones of Stennes originally were comprised of 12 stones. Much larger than the stones at Brogdar, what is most impressive is the sheer size of these slabs.

Dan at The Standing Stones of Stennes

Dan at The Ring of Brogdar

Me and a Standing Stone of Stennes

After our two stops, we were headed to our twilight tour of Maeshowe. Over 5000 years old, Maeshowe is considered the finest neolithic tomb in northern Europe. Another UNESCO site, the tomb is only accessible via tour guide and reservations must be made in advance. While not particularly large inside the construction of Maeshowe is what lets it stand apart.

Because Maeshowe was pillaged by Vikings in the 12th century, there are no artifacts left to verify if Maeshowe truly was a tomb or used for another purpose. What is so special is that the vikings who were trapped in Maeshowe for 3 days during a particularly brutal storm, carved graffiti into the stones all over the place. The viking graffiti is spectacular and something you have to see up close if you get the chance.

After Maeshowe, we headed into town where we were able to grab a quick bite. The bartender at the pub took pity on us and put our order in after the kitchen had closed. We then strolled back to our hostel and hit the sack because we had a very early departure on the morning ferry.

Sunset over the Orkneys at 10:30pm

The following day we were back on the mainland by 9:30. We started our way down south to spend our final night in Stirling, just a short drive from Edinburgh, where we would depart from the following morning. Along the way we made a stop at Loch Ness and Urquhart Castle. Urquhart Castle is located in Drumnadrochit and its ruins run right up to the water's edge. One of the largest castles in Scotland, Urquhart traded hands continuously during the Jacobite uprisings. While the castle is mostly ruins now, it is an impressive site and hard to fathom how the castle could be conquered by invading forces so often with such a stronghold of a position.


Urquhart Castle overlooking Loch Ness.


After Urquhart, we grabbed lunch in town and then were off to Stirling for the night. We were able to grab a bite late, but were so tired, we forgot to bring the camera to take any pictures. After dinner we packed up and headed out early for the airport and our New York stopover. All in all an amazing adventure. Check out the post Thursday for my travel tips and tricks for Scotland.